Functional Upcycled Powders for a range of applications
JRS are proud to introduce VITACEL CS 5 Apple and VITACEL CS 5 Oat. These upcycled materials are derived from food industry waste products. They undergo minimal “mechanical” processes and can be considered “Natural” according to Cosmos and ISO definitions.
Whilst both the Apple and Oat powders as known for their excellent sensorial properties as well as for their filling and soft focus characteristics, their ability to form Pickering emulsions is less well known.
Pickering Emulsions are typically oil in water emulsions stabilised by solid particles as opposed to conventional emulsifiers. VITACEL CS 5 Apple and Oat powders both contain hydrophilic and hydrophobic portions which facilitates their positioning at the interface of oil and water thus enabling the formation of emulsions. The particles also contain soluble proteins and exhibit a mild “charge” around the oil droplets which also helps stabilise the emulsion.
Pickering emulsions have a unique skin feel due to the presence of solid “powder” particles and allow the formulator to create 100% Natural products. The absence of conventional emulsifiers has the added advantage for ethical claims such as “palm free” and “upcycled ingredients” etc.
After extensive testing it has been shown that the correct inclusion levels of these two powders is extremely important to ensure stable and effective emulsion products:Recommended use level:
VITACEL CS 5 Oat- 3.5%
VITACEL CS 5 Apple- 3%
It is important to note the adding too much of these powder can lead to “balling” in the final formulation. Studies have also shown that higher levels of oil produce higher viscosities and a natural external phase thickener, such as VIVAPUR CS 032 XV, is recommended rather than synthetic thickeners such as carbomer and sodium polyacrylate.
Pickering emulsions can be adapted for classic face and body creams as well for sunscreens and foundations.